ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
Dreaming of creating the best fabrics in the world, Ermenegldo Zegna founded his brand in 1910 in Trivero, in northern Italy. Since then, the brand has become one of the most recognized business in Italy. Zegna’s vision has been kept to this day: a product’s high quality can only be proven when a beauty-culture that is respectful to the environment and local communities exist. Nowadays, Ermenegildo Zegna is a stablished referent in male fashion, bringing impeccable suits and exquisitely crafted clothing to the world, going as far as conquering the Asian market for the first time.
Today, creative director Alessandro Sartori has taken Zegna into renewal according to the fashion needs of the modern man, and reiterates his vision with the Fall-Winter 2020 collection, presented on a mesmerizing walkway, amidst a 37 kilometre surface made from scrap cloth pieces leftover from the six previous collections. Additionally, 50% of the collection was made with recycled materials and reinforces Zegna’s compromise with the environment. With its 56 looks, this collection is Sartori’s proposal for a casual man, relaxed and sophisticated with a colour scheme in blacks and greys, detailed in blue, burgundy and camel, urban silhouettes fade into the formal style of two-piece suits. Complemented with parkas and bomber jackets, and long coats, this looks are bound to become the new basics for any gentlemen, regardless of his style. Sartori keeps Zegna’s vision alive: create sustainable clothes that last forever.
GIORGIO ARMANI
Skiing in the mountains is not the same since EA7, by Giorgio Armani, was presented, substituting the common sportswear for this activity. The French, Italian, Swiss and Austrian Alps get dressed in the emblem Italian brand, and as is tradition, the Fall-Winter 2020 Armani show opened with 12 ensembles from the new Neve line. Without compromising style, commodity and functionality, Armani forgoes the usual feather and piumino used in winter clothes and substitutes them for cashmere and wool layers. Ten outfits in black and two in total white made in velvet, cashmere, wool and nylon paraded through the walkway, embellished to simulate a snowy landscape lost in the mountains, complete with huge transparent cubes made to look like ice blocks. The whole installation is a probable reference to R-EA, Recycled Emporio Armani, as the cubes were made in plexiglass reused from their shop windows.
Additionally, the urban looks take centre stage with opulence and elegance oozing out of each of the 72 outfits comprising this collection. Knee-length coats varying in colour and material, such as green velvet, grey wool and checker-cashmere complement fitted jackets and blazers that accentuate the shoulders and waist. Broad, straight and waist-high trousers consolidate the image for the new man, proposed by Armani for several seasons now. Six black velvet suits bring the collection to a close with an aesthetic midway between the luxury and casual styles, offering a new way to wear a suit without coming off as flashy.
TOM FORD
Thinking of American luxury fashion, Tom Ford is the immediate reference. Synonymous with high quality in all their clothes and products, Ford is influenced by their contact with Gucci. In their Fall-Winter 2020 collection, presented in Los Angeles, they mix male and female lines in a show heavily inspired by the disco era and creating a new, lineal and daring proposal for men.
Grey, bonze, pink, violet, black and white are the central colours in the collection, accentuated by turquoise and orange, signalling this collection as unfit for the more discreet and classic. Daring, these looks are elaborated in lustrous silk that makes casual monochrome violet and pink suits shine. Slim fit blazers, jackets and shirts juxtapose with elephant leg jeans, fitted on the upper half and loose down the leg.
A fundamental piece for this collection is leather articles such as bags and backpacks which expertly complement each look, calling back to the central Ford essence from all previous collections, while at the same time diversifying the proposal with leather covers for AirPods and iPhones. This exemplifies Tom Ford’s true nature as much more than a common male fashion brand, but a lifestyle on its own. This is an adventurous risk taken by the Texan designer, demonstrating that no matter what style one carries, the American brand offers a whole array of options for the modern man.
BERLUTI
Founded by Alessandro Berluti, and having seduced Andy Warhol, Edward VIII duke of Windsor, Jean Cocteau, and Frank Sinatra, Berluti has evolved outside the limits of a mere shoe brand. After the founder’s demise, Torello Berluti, his son, began the process to transform it and take it beyond shoemaking, the most memorable moment of its history being when Olga Berluti took over the creative division and pushed forward the iconic colour palette of green, red, maroon deep blue, purple and baby blue. After a while, and with the help of several designers, the Italian brand has consolidated and is now directed by designer Kris Van Assche after his time in Yves Saint Laurent and Dior Homme. With his unique vision, he transposes and revolutionizes his style with a brand that strays far away from his usual practice as a Creative Director.
With a classic style and cuts, Kris Van Assche presents the Fall-Winter 2020 collection, an option for men who are fearless, and wish to wear outstanding clothes and brilliant monochrome outfits. The best examples are double-sided coats in fluorescent fuchsia and leather clothes in brown and blue. Some other highlights include two-piece suits in primary colours and tonal details that stand out from neutral shades that complete each outfit.
DIOR MEN
The new era in Dior Men is spearheaded by Kim Jones, who revolutionizes the French Maison with a new aesthetic proposal incorporating urban style and classic pieces, creating a unique vision only Jones know to create. For several collections now, the designer, who left Louis Vuitton, has given new life into this brand by LVMH group.
The most recent collection mixes materials, techniques and inspiration that speak to a new man who prefers to break limits and for whom canon is just a set of old-fashioned social rules. Jones goes above and beyond with this line in which the High-couture Dior archive from the 1950s, including silhouettes and embroidery were the referents to create the image for the new Dior man.
A neutral tone palette including beige, grey, brown and marine blue is present along the whole collection, with accents in bright green and blue, visible in coats, leather jackets and two-piece suits. The 47 looks also include tailor trousers with a straight cut and loose fit, adding the frequent use of accessories such as elbow-high gloves from different colours and materials such as velvet and leather. As it is inspired by High-outure, cuts and needlework are essential for this line, which are adapted in this edition. The best example is the two-piece ensemble composed of a dress shirt and cowl, embroidered in silver, handiwork by the expert couturieres ar the Dior ateliers. Finally, Kim Jones pays homage to the jewel designer and stylist Judy Blame. Together with hatter Stephen Jones, Kim Jones creates a collection of straight berets adorned with jewels inspired by Blame’s designs.
Photos: courtesy.
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