In 1947, Christian Dior would revolutionise fashion through the presentation of his New Look, a silhouette that would come to influence runways to this day. This 2022 marks the 75th anniversary of House of Dior, and the influence their designs have on the world at large. On this celebration, Kim Jones presents a special collection that stabilises a dialogue between his mind as Creative Director for Menswear at the House, and monsieur Christian Dior.
This collection, unlike previous works of Jones at Dior, is a solo collection, forfeiting collaboration with an artistic personality to showcase his own, unaltered vision in what is a purely Dior, purely Jones collection.
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Permeating through the ensembles is the iconic Dior Grey, paired with some subtle, yet bright, pastel shades of yellow and blue, an echo of a Parisian sunrise which perfectly pairs with the stage on which the collection was first presented. The runway was a recreation of Pont Alexandre III, a French icon that perfectly embodies the life and times of monsieur Dior. Accordingly, the colours were selected for their significance in monsieur Dior’s life.
The silhouettes are, in general, a masterful re-appropriation of the iconic New Look into masculine fashion. A definitive icon in the original Dior runway was the Bar jacket, with a girded waist and ample, almost tulip-like waist. Through an intricate and structured process, a simple male blazer, jacket or overcoat is turned into an innovative silhouette that echoes the tulip waist. The cuts are accentuated by hand-stitched, white hems that almost seem frayed at times.
Some other ways in which the conversation between Jones and Dior continues are embodied in the reinterpreted Cannage in padded leather, leopard animal print in bright blue and yellow, and the embroidered icon of the beloved dog of monsieur Dior, Bobby. A multifaceted ode to the Dior style is presented in jackets, hats, capes and shirts, presenting distinct aspects of the House’s history.
A stand out motif that enamoured Jones in the creation of the collection is composed of the floral patterns present in many of the House’s historic dresses. Directly taken from a custom dress made for Madame Firestone and a jacket for Grace Kelly, delicate, scattered floral patterns sparkle on shirts, jackets and berretes. A special care was put in the recreation of the 1949 Miss Dior floral dress, taking the delicate fabric flowers and placing each petal on a masculine, off-white sweater.
Jewellery and accessories are, as per usual, not strangers to Jones’ discourse. Precious jewelled chains for men showcase the CD initials, created in collaboration with Victoire de Castellane, complementing the floral motifs of other jewellery pieces in the collection. The classic Dior beret hat is reimagined by Stephen Jones, who also celebrates an important milestone in his career: 2022 is the 25th year of him working with Dior , creating groundbreaking hat designs. Finally, breathing fresh air into the collection, instead of classical Dior shoes, Jones collaborated with Birkenstock to create new models that take and reinvent the visual codes of Dior shoes, incorporating floral patterns prevalent in the collection.
A beautiful, sobre and emotional dialogue between present and past is seen through each of the fifty looks in the collection. A set of attires that feel undoubtedly Jones, but at the same time, undeniably Dior, the Fall 2022 Menswear collection for Dior is an ideal celebration of the brand’s 75 year history and a powerful statement for their future.