Inspiration can come from any place. In the case of the Alexander McQueen Menswear collection for the Fall-Winter 2020 season, it comes from the Nordic landscapes abundant in stone and flint. The grey spawns of land mix with art nouveau, the organic sculptures of Henry Moore and ancient beetling traditions to create a unique and outstanding collection.
Taking directly from a trip by author Sarah Burton that took the tailor up north from sculptors Henry Moore’s studio all the way to the Scottish Highlands. Motorcycle gear and military harnesses make up the inspiration behind the ornaments on most of the garments.
Simple silhouettes are a staple in this collection, while sumptuous fabrics compose most of the pieces. Small waists and broad, pointy shoulders are a constant, as well as straight lines invoking slim figures. Lifting muted colors and sharp edges directly from the aforementioned landscapes, grey sharkskin mohair, black wool, camel, stone and white thread and flannel create a constant line to follow this season. Details in gold and silver highlight certain pieces, creating an interesting variance.
Burton expertly mixes organic embroidered elements reminiscent of Henry Moore. Some intriguing pieces originate from this mix: black, long overcoat strewn over black dress trousers both with a matching, spiraling pattern. Alas, repeating prints are a mainstay in this line: inked flowers in black and white, bright pink and muted sepia stand out from white trousers, dress shirts, overcoats and jackets. Some other jackets and blazers are intervened with thick, patterned leather stripes that help build the signature slim shape and offer an air of freshness and refined youthfulness. Scottish influences can be felt in certain pants and jackets, all made of trademark wool, which incorporate a half kilt to add some variance. What looks like a long overcoat, defined by the kilt, spliced with a traditional blazer gives one of the most interesting outlines in the collection.
Sweaters mixing and matching different fabrics and wools in black and dark grey splashed with bright yellow furs in organic shapes, and white and red grid prints take center stage in an innovative way of diversifying the line.
Some standout pieces include a bright pink wool pants and trompe l’oeil jacket with an uneven cut, and a large coat in mineral yellow suede, easily the most exuberant of the pieces. Most if not all of the remaining blazers and coats are also adorned with special features: leather strips and metal buckles reminiscent of military wear, and most importantly different fabrics mixed in stylish cuts. A taupe long overcoat has half-sleeves and side flaps made of dark-brown cloth and big brass buttons, and other hybrid jackets are cut in ivory and black wool silk, gold and silver metallic moiré. Full red ensemble of shiny silky fabric complete with a long jacket is an immediate eye-catcher amongst the muted colors that characterize the brand.
A black leather jacket raided with studs and white leather details, slashed sleeves finished with silver sippers, and a yellow leather jacket with black shoulders and a black, long leather jacket with red details show the direct inspiration of urban wear and motorcyclist aesthetic, while maintaining the iconic McQueen style.
The most recognizable staple of the Alexander McQueen studio is back this season in a renewed fashion. Hand-drawn skulls with sketch and ink lines visible feature as oversized print in a taupe or stone overall, offering a new take on the traditional memento mori motif key in the House.
What is possibly the most astounding showpiece is a full suit, pants, blazer and coat, printed with Three Quarters Piece 1928 by Henry Moore, creating a dreamy set to steal gazes all around.
Alexander McQueen shines once again, this time through the creative vision of Sarah Burton, creating a full collection for this Fall-Winter 2020 season which brings forth sophistication through abstraction and artistic prints and silhouettes. Somber, tasteful pieces and ensembles of both muted tones and bright colors offer a variety of options for every taste, assuring a daring edge is available for anyone who wishes to delve into the fine prints and fabrics offered in this collection.