“And when things fall apart, you’ll remember one day”. Famous words uttered by Michael Jackson in his song One Day, which echo even now, years after his unfortunate demise. Now, inspired by the life and times of the King of Pop, Virgil Abloh has created Louis Vuitton’s 2019 Fall-Winter menswear collection.
Unveiled on a stage in Paris set to look just like a New York street featured in the Billie Jean video, the collection features boyhood and universality as its central themes. Several different looks use multiple layering on monochromatic fabric to create a distinct aesthetic. This also achieves a loose, broad silhouette, inviting to think of inclusivity.
Muted tones in different ranges of gray prevail in most of the outfits, mixing up long vests under blazers, wide, fluid pants and fluttering long drapes not dissimilar to a skirt. Trousers for this collection are not slim fit, all the contrary, they all flow and tend to flare right above the shoe, usually a cutting-edge sportswear shoe, as has been customary in the past seasons.
Taking directly from Michael Jackson’s influence, Virgil Abloh’s pieces mix several luxurious techniques: crystal-beaded jackets, gloves, and handbags; military paraphernalia; top hats lathered with holes; and an iconic loose-fitting, white, long-sleeved shirt are all centerpieces of the fashion show, evoking Jackson’s own life and imaginations, within which Abloh draws a parallel with any boy’s life.
Mixed in the lot one can also find instrumental pieces made from flag prints and African maps in repetitive, enormous fashion. All of these follow Abloh’s discourse on today’s society: always centered in Europe and America, this time, the lens is fixed on the other side of the globe.
The boldest pieces in the collection feature a deep, bright red and, outstandingly, a full purple suit in which Alton Manson, a dancer, did a performance throughout the night mimicking Jackson’s Peter Pan-like persona. Overall, Abloh’s work is just what the brand and the public expected from him. He is a sophomore in the fashion industry, someone entrusted to carry out Louis Vuitton’s legacy of global vision and unifying brand. He is a designer of the 21st century, excluding boundaries, he opens the brands of old to the new generation, he brings to fashion all in what boys and kids believe nowadays.