Renowned artist Jean Schlumberger left an everlasting imprint on the jewellery world, crafting breathtaking pieces that reflected unparalleled beauty and creativity. Born into a prominent French textile family, Schlumberger’s early artistic inclinations led him to Paris in the 1930s, where he worked for Lucien Lelong and found inspiration in antiques.
In the late 1930s, he became a sought-after jeweller in Paris, catching the eye of fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli. His artistic prowess shone through in imaginative buttons for Schiaparelli’s collections. In 1956, the legendary collaboration with Tiffany & Co. began, marking a pivotal moment in his career.
Schlumberger’s creativity knew no bounds; his sketches on ultra-thin paper displayed a sculptural quality. His distinctive use of enamel paillonné, a 19th-century technique, produced vibrant, intricate designs on 18k yellow gold, establishing him among the finest jewellery designers.
The partnership with Tiffany & Co. resulted in iconic pieces, such as the Ribbon Rosette necklace featuring the Tiffany Yellow Diamond. Notable figures, including President John F. Kennedy and his wife Jackie, adorned themselves with Schlumberger’s extraordinary creations, like the timeless Croisillon bracelets.
Honoured with the Coty Award in 1958 and Knight of the National Order of Merit in 1977, Schlumberger’s brilliance extended beyond jewellery. The posthumous retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in 1995 marked a rare honour for a jewellery designer.
Bird on a Rock: Iconic Brilliance
Among Schlumberger’s most iconic designs is the Bird on a Rock clip, featuring an enchanting bird perched upon a rock. Inspired by his fascination with nature, botanical gardens, and exotic species, this piece captures the essence of Schlumberger’s artistic vision. Crafted in 18k yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds, the clip pays homage to his love for the whimsical and the extraordinary. Every gemstone Schlumberger used was given a customised design.
The Bird on a Rock, initially set with the renowned Tiffany Yellow Diamond, remained a symbol of his artistic retrospective for 17 years. Crafted using a special casting technique, a tradition at Tiffany since 1867, the clip showcases the meticulous craftsmanship that distinguishes Schlumberger’s creations. Available in three styles—Oval, Cushion, and Emerald—and an array of gemstone colours, the Bird on a Rock brooch is a versatile statement for both male and female clients. It explores the unique ways clients can wear this iconic brooch, as it symbolises the extraordinary talent and enduring influence of Jean Schlumberger’s creative legacy.”
Schlumberger’s legacy endures at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, showcasing a blend of precious and whimsical elements. Available in three styles and various gemstone colours, the Bird on a Rock brooch remains a versatile statement, celebrating the timeless artistry of Jean Schlumberger.
Photos: courtesy.
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